Month: July 2019

Another hiking day – we decide that we should go east and explore the eastern side of the Wind River Range since we might not come this way again. I am only able to find one day hike that is doable for us, most of the trails are a 1,000-2,000 elevation gain and 20+ miles. The challenge will be to find the access road. Going east on the highway toward Dubois, we pass the Continental Divide at over 9,000 ft in elevation. Brooks Lake Road is on our left and we immediately are confronted with a large sign saying there has been bear activity, and a horse carcass; the trail is closed. Oh no- we have no bear spray and really do not want any bear encounters!

Brooks Lake seems like a good alternative so we continue on the dirt road, passing the stables which must have been the home of the unfortunate horse. The lake is pretty, with rocky spires rising up on one side. We see others hiking on the trail and run into another couple, so with safety in numbers decide to venture out a little. They are from Louisiana and he tells us he is a former gymnast. He asks us our ancestry then tries to say ni hao, and tells us about their trip to China. Despite us telling him we are born and raised here in the US, he keeps trying to talk about China, and as we separate, says zai zhen (bye) to us. We never find the lake and end up turning back as the trail enters a wooded area- no need to see a bear today!

At the campground, the host tells us a black bear has been making the rounds every afternoon. There has also been a grizzly spotted in the area a week ago.

Onward to Dubois, what an incredible surprise the guidebooks did not mention. This little western town is nestled in the foothills of striated red rock formations on the east and gentle slopes of the Wind River Range on the west. How different this side of the range is! I am struck by the vastness of the red landscape and how beautiful the scenery is. Upon the recommendation of the forest service ranger, we drive up the steep dirt road to the scenic overlook. It truly takes my breath away to be at the very top with a 360 degree view. Despite the threatening thunder and ominous black clouds, I take the path to the viewpoint and can’t stop photographing this scene. Extraordinary!!

It is getting late and time to head back to Moran. The last bit of excitement – we see several cars stopped along the side of the road and it is a mother grizzly and her sow alongside the creek. She finally leaves the area and we turn into the lake area, only to find she is there with a captive audience. One woman has been photographing her for 3 years; she said the cub is 8 months and for about 30 days, they were separated and the cub had to fend for itself. No one knows why.

Our final activity is evening fishing on the Snake River but no luck tonight and we call it a night.

Our destination today is the Hatchet Motel in Moran, Wyoming which will give us access to the north/east Wind River Range. Passing Jackson, we had lunch at the Bunnery Bakery and walked around town with stops at the fly shop and US Fish and Wildlife. The drive runs alongside the Teton Range and into the Grand Tetons NP. Ray was trying to revisit old fishing memories at Jenny Lake, String Lake and Jackson Lake, where he had caught large fish some 20 years ago.

With an afternoon thunderstorm approaching, the skies turned dark and streaks of rain could be seen in the distance. Wyoming and Montana clouds are the best. I photographed the distant storms.

Toward evening, we went back into the Tetons NP, down a dirt road to a secluded spot on the narrow Snake River. We fished until dark and although we did not get any bites, standing and casting in the river at sunset there reminded me of the movie “The River Runs Through It”, the darkening river reflecting the last bit of light coming through the trees, totally dramatic and moving.

It feels good to sleep in after so many early mornings and we don’t get on to the trail until almost 11. Fortunately it is cloudy and cool today, with a few small showers as we hike. Our trail is the Pole Creek Trail starting at Elklund trailhead at the top of Fremont Lake, which taking us to Williams Lake. We end up taking a 1.4 mi detour to “photographers viewpoint”, which we find has a spectacular view of the Wind River Range and granite outcroppings. We hike at 9,500 ft in elevation; the trail is fairly flat and groomed but there are so many mosquitos they will eat you alive. We have insect shield clothing and deet but they hover annoyingly in front of my face. If there are close to 20 in front of me, there must be millions in the entire area!

We run into an Asian couple from Colorado who said they backpacked the range 20 years ago. Their son tells us the east side is much more difficult and the terrain is quite different, giving one a sense of the geology of the range. On the trail, we pass alpacas packing up the trail and think this might be a good way to go instead of backpacking, though when it starts to shower, camping up here feels like a challenge.

We decide to make another stop and check out Elklund Lake 2 miles further up the trail then to head back down to Williams Lake. The wildflowers are in bloom and on both sides of the trail are carpets of lupine, buttercups and other flowers I don’t recognize. In total we hike 13 miles, seeing only a few groups the entire day.

We exit the trail at 8:30 pm and head for the Wind River Brewery for a quick dinner before calling it a night.

It is a 3 hour drive from Rexburg Idaho to Pinedale Wyoming, and the landscape changes from flat and gentle rolling farm fields of hay and potatoes in Idaho, to wide open expanses of sagebrush in Wyoming. The low mountains have the Tetons as a backdrop, and large ranches are marked by crisscross fences and tall wood arches. The towns we pass are small with a smattering of log ranch homes among the barren landscape, some with population less than 100.

We take a short tour through Jackson, simple but with a hint of an upscale village. We learn that the town is called Jackson but the valley and surrounding towns comprise Jackson Hole. Further east, the jagged peaks of the Wind River Range come into view, with homes and towns lush green at the foothills. We are staying in Pinedale, a friendly town with a few blocks of commercial business on the main thoroughfare, one grocery store, and a few fly shop and outfitters. A knowledgeable young man gives us suggestions for hiking, views and fishing of course. Everyone says there are masses of mosquitos in the mountains no matter what time of day.

We decide to take a short drive to Fremont Lake and admire the views from the overlook. After our simple dinner, we drive along the Green River in search of a good fishing spot. There is a couple from Connecticut, camping in their reburbished 1999 Westfalia, which he promptly says is a “deathtrap”. They let us park there in order to access the river. It is a small world- they are going to Illinois this week to see their daughter and will be visiting the UI.

The currents are fast and I promptly get my fly caught under a rock. After hooking onto a log, I abandon the rod for my camera and spend the remainder of the evening photographing the river. It is good to have a second hobby!

The Wind River Range is comprised of forest service land, not national or state parks, so access is somewhat limited to dirt and gravel roads. There are very few campgrounds and a lack of picnic areas; the area is rugged and less developed than what we are used to. Most of the trails are moderate to difficult multi-day backpacking trails. I think we have found a day hike for tomorrow that leads to some views. This Wind River Range trip is exploratory so it is all an adventure.

It is another early morning though the group is late arriving due to grizzly bear traffic through west Yellowstone. We venture out on the Madison between Raynolds Bridge and 3 Dollar Bridge. The rain starts to fall as we hike across the bridge, squeeze through a 6 inch opening of barbed wire and about a half mile along the river, the fields of sagebrush go as far as the eye can see. Dry fly fishing isn’t successful and we nymph. I catch 2 good sized trout and lose 2 among the bushy bank. As the skies clear, we rejoice in the partly cloudy cool weather, such a welcome respite from the heat of this week.

After lunch, we drive to the section of river between Quake Lake and Hebgen Lake. As we set up our rods, we share a picnic table and a guy complains how Idaho fishing is so lousy now with so many guides bringing people there. He says that “those biologists don’t know anything. The Henry Fork Foundation is ruining the river, telling them to run wastewater into it for nitrogen and potassium.” He claims he has been working in wastewater treatment for over 20 years and knows this business!!! I find it interesting to hear what a “local” person thinks. He further says their little town of Island City is getting too big, they are building a Marriott across from his house and he is going to have to move. (population of Island City- 300!)

As we fish, the wind picks up, the water runs fast and we are challenged by tangling lines and the rocky bottom of the river which catches our flies. I do catch a small whitefish but nothing else.

Nevertheless, I am proud of how far I have come in a few days, thinking back to my first attempt on this section of river with Ray earlier this week, my fear of wading, and how I was ready to give it all up! Today, I wade on gravel and rocks, cast comfortably, know how to set up my gear, select the appropriate flies, and feel confident with this sport. It is such a good feeling! I am also grateful for the casting skills I came with and am more aware of what improvements I need to make.

Too soon, the class comes to an end. We say our good byes; I have enjoyed the company and camaraderie of these women. I meet up with Ray as the clouds darken and our car is pelted with heavy rain and hail. As we drive, the skies clear to rainbows and gorgeous formations, farewell Montana.

Second day of class, on the river today. Catching a large brown trout downstream of 3 Dollar Bridge is the highlight of the day, 2 small rainbows hooked upstream of the bridge is a mighty good way to start the day. My casting is improving as is my wading, helps to have borrowed trekking poles. It sure is hot here- in the mid 80’s by mid day with full sun! The other women wade with wading socks and boots, the girl guide/instructors in hiking pants and sandals.

Evening fishing after a break indoors, but the temperature is cool which means the fishing is slow, no rising fish but I try nymphing and catch one 12 inch rainbow and have 3 that don’t hook on. The sunset and dusk are beautiful, and I cannot resist photographing. Thus ends our last evening here.

Class is at the Gallatin Fly Shop in Big Sky about an hour away. I leave before 7, the mist is rising over Quake Lake and Beaver Creek. Of course, I must stop to photograph! The drive through the western part of Yellowstone is incredibly beautiful, then very foggy. I see that the Gallatin River is brown and not fishable. I later learn the daily rains have blown out the river all week.

There are only 3 in our class; the other 2 are a mother daughter from Bozeman, the daughter had outfitted her mother and signed them up to do the class together, very sweet. Kim, our instructor is a native of Montana and has been fly fishing for 9 years. The morning session is in the classroom and she assumes nothing, covering everything from how to put your rod together, to insects. We assemble our gear, tie knots and attach flies, then we suit up and are off. First stop is the river where we learn to fish. Surprisingly, there is no casting instruction and Kim is surprised to hear about our casting only classes in the bay area. We nymph but the water is too muddy to catch anything. We spend some time in the pond out back, casting pellet-like flies while she throws pellets in to attract the fish, with the intent that a fish will take the fly by mistake. The purpose is to feel what a bite feels like, and learn how to react.

Driving back I encounter horses crossing the highway and the usual Yellowstone wildlife gawkers stopped mid highway; a lone moose in the pond.

We go back out on the Madison close to sunset and I catch a 15 inch rainbow on a dry fly! What a thrill and what fun it was to see the fish jump up for it. Great day!

In the morning I find this wading business to be very difficult, especially without a wading staff, which I will definitely need to get. Ray patiently takes me upriver of Quake Lake today in a beautiful stretch of the Madison. Quake Lake was formed by the earthquake of 1959 and is 6 miles long; the Madison River flows into and out of it. The current is stronger downstream of the lake. Ray patiently coaches me but every time he casts, he gets a fish! Every time I cast, nothing happens! I’m watching a little white indicator ball for 2-3 hrs. as it drifts up and down, up and down small stretches, hmm, as far as I can tell, I am doing what he does. He says I’ve missed “fish on” signals! Well, maybe in time, I too will catch fish!

My boots and cleats work well but when we get into knee deep water, the extra space in my waders are like balloons and become buoyant! I think I like ankle deep water the best. I’m ready to take a long break after 3 hours and to go back after the 80+ heat of the afternoon but Ray, well he goes all day and I mean ALL day!

Progress in the evening! We fish near Raynolds Bridge where the water is more shallow. I hook 6 fish and land 3, all 15-16 inch rainbows! It is a thrill as these fish toss and turn and fight. It is a positive thing that each time I go out, I do a little better. Little black caddis, we love you.

Driving out of Hailey, plumes of smoke fill the sky. There are several brush fires in the Boise and Challis National Forest areas, caused by lightning strikes overnight. Goodale’s Cutoff is a small wetlands area backed by several layers of pastel colored rolling hills. We stop to take pictures and learn that this was a cutoff from the Oregon Trail that Idaho pioneers used in 1862 to avoid being attacked by native americans along the Snake River. Due to a late spring season, the flowers are in bloom and water is everywhere. Within an hour though, heavy smoke fills the skies.

The next stop is Craters of the Moon National Monument formed by volcanic activity between 15,000 and 2,000 years ago along the Great Rift, an area 52 miles long which runs througthe Snake River Valley. The lava field grew to over 618 square miles. It appears that desert flowers have just finished their bloom. What a spectacle it must have been with carpets of blooms a month ago.We take the 7 mile loop and stop for a short hike up the side of the inferno cinder cone leading to a 360 degree view of the area. 

We travel northeast and the drive through Idaho is hot with temperatures in the 90’s. Several brush fires continue to create smoky conditions and brown skies. The landscape consists of acres and acres of flat land and sagebrush surrounded by mountains which in places resembles a water color painting. Off in the distance, bands of dark clouds stream down rain.

We stop for groceries in Idaho Falls, the last major city before reaching the Slide Inn, our base for the next 4 days. Ray comments that we have too much food.

Another couple of hours and we cross the Montana border. Here is the famous Madison River, where it seems all fly fisherman aspire to be. I have heard so much talk about it that it is a thrill to be here. We are told it has rained every afternoon for this past week. The cool breeze is a welcome respite from the heat.

Kelly, a very friendly guy, owns the Slide Inn and I am impressed with the well appointed log cabins. We settle in, have dinner and off we go to the river. 

It is my first attempt at wading!  The evening is beautiful although we see bolts of lightning in the distance, which I haven’t experienced in decades. I almost hook a fish and have fun trying. After sunset, the clouds darken and we make it back to the car just as the skies open to a nice rain. 

Because photographers get up early, I am up a little after dawn, thinking that I should have a hobby that allows for sleeping in; Ray suggests painting still life? We are rewarded with 15 min of morning glow and glorious reflections of the Sawtooth range at Little Redfish Lake. Feeling quite satisfied, we go for pastries at the Stanley Bakery and enjoy scones from our motel deck. It is a chilly 50 degrees and dark clouds cover the sky. We have a hard time believing it will reach the projected 89 degrees.

Today is a hiking day but given the predicted heat, we opt for a relatively flat hike up Fishhook Creek to the meadow, surrounded by jagged peaks of the Sawtooth. In the shade, it is comfortable but returning back, we realize the temperature has indeed reached 89 degrees. We pause in the woods by the river, in no hurry to leave.

There is not much activity that is enticing when it is so hot, so we stop at the fish hatchery visitors center. Did you know somewhere between 500-1,000 chinook salmon actually make it from the Pacific Ocean to Idaho, surviving all the dams along the Columbia River? It is truly mind blowing! After our rendezvous in Stanley, we travel back toward Hailey, and stop at a variety of creekside locations at the summit, but find nothing fishable.

After a surprisingly terrific dinner at Dangs Thai Restaurant, and an unsuccessful search for a fishable creek, we retire to the Airport Inn in Hailey. It is hard to believe we have only been gone 3 days; we’ve covered a lot of ground!

We are up early today to get to Silver Creek Preserve, an hour drive from Hailey Idaho, a world renowned trout stream made famous by Ernest Hemingway who fished there with Gary Cooper. A large section of river has been preserved by The Nature Conservancy, and areas surrounding it, through easements with farmers. I am not fishing today and spend several hours of early morning light photographing the curving striped rows of newly harvested hay fields, and misty water from agricultural sprayers.

My worries about being alone in this preserve were unfounded. At the TNC visitors’ center is a lovely elderly couple who are volunteer hosts for 2 weeks. They spend part of the year in Seattle and Arizona, and travel in their large Mercedes Pleasure Cruiser. Their daughter works as the cfo of the TNC in Hailey, and by volunteering as hosts/docents, they get to stay in a little cabin on the preserve. We sit in the outdoor covered patio of the log structure and chat for several hours, about the current administration, traveling in a trailer, cost of housing etc. Several groups stop by- families, tourists, fishermen, and some locals- I get a flavor of the area, that many work for the resorts in Ketchum Sun Valley, the great outdoor opportunities, and affordable quality of life. It made me wonder why more people don’t choose to move to places like this.

After a disappointingly bad lunch in Hailey (almost everything is closed on sundays), we head to Stanley at the foothills of the Sawtooth Mountains. Stanley has been one of my favorite towns, a lovely setting and totally charming. We get there as everyone is packing up after the weekend arts and crafts fair. The Redfish Riverside Inn has a cancellation in their upstairs cabin room right on the river which we take. We grill our steaks and enjoy a quiet dinner on the deck overlooking the Salmon River. Sunset falls quickly as we try to fish on the creek. I remember their incredibly comfortable beds but the beds are waist high on me- getting in and out of bed is quite a feat!

Today we drive across the barren open spaces of Nevada and Idaho. With no traffic to contend with, my mind focuses on the vast olive colored landscape and undulating hills, which open up into flat and parched earth. They are beautiful in their own way and a reminder that outside of our dense cities exists an enormous expanse of uninhabited space. Why is this space so undesirable and will innovations in the future make these spaces viable for living?

We drive for 11 hours today, destination the Red Lion Inn, Twin Falls Idaho. To keep my circulation going, I do 100 jumping jacks at each 2-3 hour stop we make, though the 90 + heat is a bit of a deterrent. I have an 11 hour playlist, salads for lunch, and a humorous travel companion.

We reach Elko in time for dinner, arriving at Teriyaki Bowl a second after 2 busloads of soccer players arrive, thus we opt for the Mexican Fresh place instead. I have to admit, freeway fast food has improved greatly in the past few years, a bit healthier fare than McDonalds and fried chicken which were the only options in years past.

We arrive at the Red Lion after 10 pm to find the place dark, inside we see bare insulation on the walls. Double check the address, correct. It appears the place is closed for renovation and no one emailed to inform us that our reservation was moved to a different Red Lion! We are off to a great start!