I was excited to see the gardens in Kyoto and they did not disappoint. Even Ray enjoyed them tremendously. We realized that “seen one temple, seen them all” is absolutely not true. Each is unique as are the gardens around them. In a video at Murin-an, we realized how tending just pine trees alone is done with patience and exactness- candling, needling and pruning-removing each new sprout of needles to create a feeling of fullness and softness. Murin-an Garden was one of our favorite gardens, created with ponds and waterfalls to take advantage of the flowing water when Lake Biwa was formed as a dam to provide water from Tokyo to Kyoto and for hydroelectric power. The small garden and its rock paths are exquisite as is the tea house with tatamis that look out onto the garden.
The majority of Japanese are atheists and believe more in superstitions. They go to temples to honor their ancestors on special occasions like weddings, birthdays or deaths. Temples have altars and statues of Budhas. Monks own, live in and care for them. Shrines are small altars set up to honor a deity and there are thousands of them- deity of health, relationships etc and they can be found all over the city. People go to make a wish or pray for someone/something- you pull the cord to ring the bell to wake the deity, bow twice, clap twice and make your wish.
Our next destination is Nanzen-Ji, a Zen Buddhist temple and Hojo Garden. It was established in 1291 , burned in 1895 and rebuilt in 1905. This is our favorite site as the temple is awe inspiring and the many Japanese maples create a very peaceful atmosphere. Red foliage in a few more weeks must be gorgeous.
To the east of the temple is a small garden with a very European looking arched structure made of red bricks. This is the aqueduct which brings water from Lake Biwa.
Following the Philosopher’s Path, we make a brief stop at Eikando Temple.
About a mile away is Ginkakuji “Temple of the Silver Pavilion”. Ashikaga Yoshimasa, a shogun originally built this as a villa, which was converted to a temple after his death. Several natural features can be seen- a pond, mossy mounds, overlook, dry sand garden and rocks. There are so many visitors including school groups that the one way paths are packed, making for a non-contemplative environment!
That completes our day’s temple and garden viewing. We get ready for our 3 hr evening walking tour of Gion, the geisha district, which we signed up for through TripAdvisor. We meet our guide and group at corner of a very busy shopping area. We are a group of 8 consisting of 2 sisters from Brazil, a couple from Calgary and a couple of men from DC and the Philippines. Our guide Kats is local and takes us through 2 geisha streets. Kyoto is one of the remaining cities with geisha tea houses of which there are about 200. Our guide said that being a geisha is no longer as popular as historically when it was considered glamorous and when some poor families turned their girls over to become geishas. They currently enter at age 15 and are an apprentice or “maiko” until age 20. They live in tea houses under the care of a mother geisha, the tea houses are identified by a long small metal plate next to the door and wooden plates which bear each geisha’s name. Geishas are considered entertainers – dance, song and hostesses. We see a geisha in a cab but none walking in the lanterned alleys.
We are led through local streets, to the guide’s home where his mother gives us candy, up alleys to overlooks, to several shrines and Kodaji Temple.
Yasaka Pagoda is a pleasant surprise, a brightly lit structure rising up 45 meters. The top is a lightning hazard! Pagodas and temples were constructed without nails. The notched beams allow for flex in an earthquake.
We learn that after the Sarin gas terrorist attack in Tokyo, the government removed all trash cans from city streets. People carry their trash home. People do not eat on subways, trains or on the street, and Japanese cities are tidy with no litter. One of our group members asked about the homeless. Apparently a few decades ago, the homeless in Kyoto were moved to Osaka where they are housed in a special section. Thus ends our informative tour. We head to a very reasonably priced sushi restaurant recommended by the hotel. Pontocho Kappa Sushi, At 9pm, there is pretty much a table available anywhere.
Today we logged an impressive 11.5 miles of walking . I am finding that my year of elementary Japanese from Foothill decades ago, combined with my knowledge of some Chinese characters is increasing my comprehension of signs and place names. The Japanese are extremely respectful and polite, exchanging bows and thank you’s back and forth several times.
Note to self: bring battery pack charger for iphone. Pants with pockets are essential.